Canmore (C)
Mount Collembola (South Route, solo, summited from 3rd attempt)

Mount Collembola (South Route, solo, summited from 3rd attempt)

I tried to summit Mount Collembola two times before. My attempt via North route from Dead Man’s Flats failed because I could not find a safe way to climb up the summit block (23 m of elevation left but hiking solo this time, I was not comfortable with exposure and turned back with tail between legs).

Crux on the way to Mt Collembola summit from North route
Crux on the way to Mt Collembola summit from North route

My second attempt via Marmot Basin and Fisera Ridge also failed because I could not find a safe way to climb down from the West (false) Peak of Collembola to the col between peaks and again turned back. Now, when I see the route from another side, I think that direct approach with 3-stage butt sliding and maybe a couple of careful scrambles down a few meters to the skier’s right would work, but it’s impossible to figure out when you stand on the top of false peak looking down and can only guess what the hell is there and would you be able to return back up if it’s a cliff, or not. Now I know that it’s doable, but maybe for the next time.

False summit of Mt Collembola and descent to the col between Collembola summits, as seen from the true summit
False summit of Mt Collembola and descent to the col between Collembola summits, as seen from the true summit

Finally I found an unexposed path to the summit, but the price for safety is off-trail-ness and class 5 bushwhacking.

Off-trail descent from Mount Collembola via South route (ascent's not any better!)
Off-trail descent from Mount Collembola via South route (ascent’s not any better!)

After all, I think it’s still worth it – the weather was perfect with no smoke for a change, and the views from the summit are gorgeous.

Centennial Ridge panorama from Mt Collembola
Centennial Ridge panorama from Mt Collembola
East panorama from Mt Collembola
East panorama from Mt Collembola
Mt Sparrowhawk seen from Mt Collembola (close up)
Mt Sparrowhawk seen from Mt Collembola (close up)
Wind Mountain seen from Mt Collembola (close up)
Wind Mountain seen from Mt Collembola (close up)
Lougheed 3 seen from Mt Collembola (close up)
Lougheed 3 seen from Mt Collembola (close up)
Lougheed 2 seen from Mt Collembola (close up)
Lougheed 2 seen from Mt Collembola (close up)
Lougheed 1 seen from Mt Collembola
Lougheed 1 seen from Mt Collembola
Three Sisters seen from Mt Collembola
Three Sisters seen from Mt Collembola
Pigeon Peak seen from Mt Collembola
Pigeon Peak seen from Mt Collembola
Mt McGillivray seen from Mt Collembola
Mt McGillivray seen from Mt Collembola
Skogan Peak and Mt Lorette seen from Mt Collembola
Skogan Peak and Mt Lorette seen from Mt Collembola
Midnight, Midday, Boundary, Bellmore Browne, Tiara seen from Mt Collembola
Midnight, Midday, Boundary, Bellmore Browne, Tiara seen from Mt Collembola
Wasootch, Kananaskis and Old Baldy Peaks seen from Mt Collembola
Wasootch, Kananaskis and Old Baldy Peaks seen from Mt Collembola
Mt Yamnuska seen from Mt Collembola (close up)
Mt Yamnuska seen from Mt Collembola (close up)

More photos from my Mt Collembola South approach are here.

The track is here, but I don’t recommend to follow it (any way you find will be better):

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *